ZIMMERMANN put the pedal to the metal when the designer sisters, Nicky and Simone, opened Australian Fashion Week with a show at the Classic Throttle Shop car dealership in North Sydney.

The mechanical nature of the setting served to highlight the highly romantic and nostalgic feel of the label's Halycon Days collection, which was heavy on lace and linen in creams and whites, with a smattering of floral prints. It seemed the designer, Nicky Zimmermann, had not met a lace she did not like, with guipure, chantilly and applique among the variations on the runway in lace dresses, leggings, blouses and panelled blazers.

She even reworked the Australian surfer's stalwart "rashie" with a two-piece swimsuit with a long-sleeve white mesh top and laser-cut lace bikini bottoms, but admitted the fabric was not a look for everyone.

"You have to be really confident to pull lace off, and you have to have really good undergarments," she said.

The nostalgic vibe continued at Bec and Bridge, which according to the show notes was: "Lauren Hutton walks down Fifth Avenue wearing a crisp white shirt, a fedora angled just so."

There was crochet, suede, a wrap dress and silky blouses in line with favourites from the decade, but unfortunately there were also micro shorts. When even the super-young and slender fail to pull them off, you know you have a problem.

The Alex Perry show was all thigh-high leather boots, furs, vertiginous heels and big hair - and that was just the front row.

Kirrily Johnston's Habitat collection presentation in Icebergs Dining Room and Bar at Bondi Beach was an exercise in strength and simplicity from which many designers could learn.

Yesterday, while other brands pilfered from a ragbag of recent international runway trends, Johnston produced an original and eye-catching collection of bold shapes and earthy colours such as rust, cinnamon and copper. The designer turned down her usual love of volume to include more body-conscious pieces such as short pencil skirts in black and tomato teamed with parchment-coloured tanks, and a strangely beguiling pair of orange '70s suede flared trousers. Johnston's signature drapery remained in bronze liquid jersey pieces, backless georgette gowns and prints inspired by her new Bengal pet cat, all accompanied with the designer's own calf-high sandal boots and towering wedges.